The Common Sense Channel

If I said I haven’t had time to write, I would be lying. I think this time, instead, it has to do with a lack of motivation. I started writing a piece on religion which I will finish later and you will get to enjoy but decided instead that right now, I would rather just write without doing the research. I could choose to focus on the internet outage that cut internet to all of Egypt or the apartment hunting process here which allows you to look, negotiate, sign a contract and move in all in the same day (which I have done). But I feel the best choice at the present moment is the wonders of the AFN. In case you are unfamiliar with the acronym, as I once was, it stands for American Forces Network. I have been house/dog sitting for some friends of mine while they went home for Christmas and they, because of occupation, are subscribed to the AFN.

This network of about 10 channels includes AFN sports, AFN movie, family, prime, pacific, etc. and features news, football, shows like Oprah and America’s Funniest Home Videos, Hannah Montana and 24. The most interesting thing to watch, however, is not the shows themselves but what is in between them. The “commercials” on AFN are not marketing products to military personnel and families but instead send messages and advice to “better” their lives. If you watch one of the channels enough to complete one show you may see messages informing you about foreign adoption and how assistance is available to service members or the importance of making a list of all the supplements you take and how you should share this with your health care provider to make sure they coincide. After all, “planning ahead is the healthy thing to do.” There are messages discouraging alcoholism and abuse and encouraging motorcycle safety and reporting suspicious activity. A woman teaches you about the difference between an expiration date and sell by date so that you do not waste good food. A ridiculous spoof on Indiana Jones talks about the symptoms of heat exhaustion and how to combat them. There are advertisements for church, “it’s your faith, it’s your choice,” because, just like building your physical strength takes going to the gym, building your spiritual faith takes going to God’s gym. Encouraging messages from generals, commanders, families, and celebrities remind you that you are a hero and to stay army strong or how you are one of “the few, the proud, the marines,” or “remember you are part of a team, the navy team, a team that depends on each other everyday.” They provide options for after you leave the military such as “become a teacher and you will be able to pass on what you have learned about honor leadership and commitment, you’ll be a role model and isn’t that what kids need?” Small clips teach about the history of “old glory” and Norman Rockwell. And of course, always remember, if you have a grievance visit your law office, “Rules and regulations are there for your safety.”

It is like a constant common sense cassette playing for your life.

In case you have forgotten what a cassette is, it is made out of plastic and ribbon, sort of like a midget VHS…oh wait, do you remember what a VHS is! Oh no, the children will not understand, help them, guide them, teach them of the past…

Anyway, can you imagine if these ads actually worked (I think they are beginning to sink into my brain, if nothing else, purely out of repetition) what they could do for the “civilian world?” Rather than supporting a consumerist society, the entertainment industry could encourage common sense and practical thinking. All the while boosting self-esteem and encouraging the adherence to orders…wait what? All that sounds delightful minus that last bit. I mean, obeying rules/laws is important for the most part but I feel as though the constant structured thought robs you of any of your own common sense and decision making skills. You are reminded, told, ordered even as to what you should do and how you should think, who you are and what to do in the future. I do find it refreshing to turn on the TV and not be bombarded with 10 minutes of sales pitch after sales pitch in between 2 minutes of actual programming, especially since I get enough marketing out in the street here. But are propaganda and messages any better when viewed in large doses? I could see why a soldier, far from home, in need of guidance could take comfort in this constant encouragement and advice but for the layman they come on a bit strong.

As Joel says, the AFN has given me a small taste of the military and although I respect them greatly, I can definitely say I am happy that I never joined the ranks. I feel as though the constant “guidance” is a little too much for my taste but it does make you proud, even if you have done nothing (like in my case for example). I do recommend, if you happen to be in the area of a military base, to make friends with an AFN user and experience the South Park remakes (to send a message of course) and special made military soap opera. Quality programming. And if that is not enough, don’t you worry because there are always the AFN radio stations. So remember if you are looking for a dose of some first-rate common sense or are a little low on self-esteem, flip on the good ol’ AFN.

More Like a Picture Book

I swear I will be writing soon...I have one started. Finals are fast approaching however and watercoloring things/studying Islamic architecture and Arabic has consumed my life for the moment...until I write, here are some pictures to look at.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mbradsh3

Who likes having to read words anyway...

Eve Started It

Ok so I have done some cool stuff since my last post such as travel to Dahab, snorkle the Red Sea, climb Mount Sinai. and talk for an interview on Egyptian news. If you wish to hear about those I would be happy to fill you in, just shoot me an e-mail. I decided I want to start mixing it up a little and writing about some issues in Egypt or other things that I observe rather than just rambling about what I have been doing. These things are more important than me so, topic numero uno: Sexual Harassment.

Sexual harassment has been a monumental problem in Egypt for ages. I guarantee that any woman residing/traveling in Egypt has experienced some form of harassment. Just google sexual harassment in Egypt and you get story after story of assult and other forms of harassment. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7593765.stm The problem does not discriminate. It doesn’t matter what race, religion, or class you are. As long as you are a woman, you are a target. Whether it be catcalls or lewd comments in Arabic/English or a man leaning into you quite unnecessarily on the metro or a cabbie grabbing your leg or going to work only to be molested. In Egypt men are taught, by way of social acceptance, that these behaviors are ok. An incident is almost always blamed on the victim. She was either too exposed or too covered. She was walking seductively or trying to hide something. She is American so it is ok. She is Muslim so it is ok. She is poor so it is ok. There is always an excuse. Here, if a woman causes a scene as a result of harassment she is normally scorned and looked down upon because, as I mentioned earlier, it is her fault. Men normally side with the man and women look the other way as an act of self-preservation or blame the woman for being too seductive.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7514567.stm

http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/2006/818/eg10.htm

Don’t get me wrong, I am not saying that all Egyptian men are perpetrators of these act s. I actually feel that the majority of the younger generation of educated men seem to be against the behavior. Still in a poll of thousands of Egyptians 62% of men polled admitted to committing some form of sexual harassment. 62% admitted to it!

A poster warning women to cover up in order to protect themselves.

The text reads: "You won't be able to stop them (i.e. men), but you can protect yourself. He who created you knows what's best for you!"

It is only recently that the country has even begun to recognize that there is a problem at all. In August, Egypt had its first forum on sexual harassment at a place called the Culture Wheel in Cairo and in October Egypt made it’s first sentence for a sexual assault conviction. http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,442481,00.html I couldn’t believe this. Every job I have started and every year in school we watch videos, read texts, sign contracts in an attempt to combat harassment. Sure harassment in America happens too but on a smaller scale and the issue is addressed and is certainly less accepted.

My personal belief is that the root of the problem stems from sexual frustration and the suppression of sexual expression. It seems ridiculous to me that PDA of any kind is frowned upon while sexual harassment is socially accepted. When there is no outlet for physical desires it seems to me that these feelings are transformed into this non-consensual, negative form of sexual expression. I agree with the statement that one girl made in an Arabic Q & A forum. “Sexual stimulation is all relative. If you are in Iran a woman without a hijab will be a cause for outrage and shock. In the West being topless does the same. And in a nudist camp people aren't bothered or aroused by any of it seemingly. By turning so much into a taboo, you appear to be making it so much easier to be 'provoked'.”

And yet, despite the embarrassment and continuous battle, these women are not voiceless. They are speaking up, fighting back, and trying to encourage change. There is a group at my school (The American University in Cairo) called the Bussy Project who’s aim is to tell the stories of victims. Think The Vagina Monologues but geared toward Egyptian issues. http://www.csmonitor.com/2008/0602/p04s01-wome.html I heard a girl practicing during my drawing class the other day and I am looking forward to watching their first performance. They are bringing these issues into the spotlight (literally) and forcing people to take notice. There are activists trying to bring about change as well. One of these is Dalia Ziada. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUoJa8QlRFw She is a 26 year old young women working on eliminating female circumcision in Egypt. Her efforts have begun to pay off as the practice was banned in Egypt in 2007. Despite this, illegal practices are still prevalent so her work is not finished. Between 95% and 98% of women in Egypt have been circumcised. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Female_genital_cutting Other women are simply trying to share their stories or the stories of those who cannot speak for themselves. One of the ways they are doing this is through blogs. I have a couple links to some examples of these. One of them actually includes a script for a Bussy project monologue. I highly suggest checking them out.
http://smsevcik.blogspot.com/2008/05/i-visited-egypt-again-in-january.html
http://musingsofamademoiselle.blogspot.com/2006/06/bussy-bussy-look-look.html http://globalvoicesonline.org/2006/11/23/egypt-cairos-women-speak-out-against-violence/

It will be a long, slow process if change starts to happen at all but there is hope for the future. During a discussion with another American student I was called naïve for thinking that eventually things could change, with education, especially of the younger generation. I understand that the change will not be quick or complete but inshallah there could be small steps taken in the right direction. Women should not continue to be blamed for their abuse.

Assimilation

I believe that I have begun to assimilate. It seems as though Egyptian culture is slowly weaving its way into my thoughts and actions. I will present you with a few examples:

1. Dahab is an “Egyptian” beach town on the southern tip of the Sinai mostly inhabited by Western tourists. A group of 9 other students and I recently took a week long vacation to Dahab for Eid ul Fitr. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eid_ul-Fitr) Upon arrival I was reluctant to strip myself of the cardigan and jeans I had been wearing in order to make way for my oh-so-riskay one-piece speedo accompanied by gym shorts and a tank top. Western tourists were walking around in almost nothing, sporting bikinis or less and here I was feeling dirty in my one-piece suit. For a month and a half any sign of shoulders or knees and I would have attracted more attention than a polar bear in the Caribbean and all of a sudden I see a topless woman and a man in a speedo sitting casually on the beach. Wait, what? People show their bodies. Haraam.

2. I find myself being surprised when people tell me the temperature. I am now perfectly comfortable in pants and a long sleeve shirt even though it is still at least 85 degrees outside. I also notice that I mention that it “feels nice” or is “cooler” anytime the temperature drops below 95. I don’t sweat as much. Walking to the grocery store and back does not require a change of clothes. (This is partly due to the natural drop in temperature as “winter” approaches but I would also like to think it has something to do with my adaptation) And the bad part…I had to wear a sweater and wrap myself in a blanket at the top of Mount Sinai where it was maybe 50 degrees. I am going to freeze when I get back to Wisconsin.

3. I say shukran (thank you) and iwa (the colloquial version of yes) to white people.

4. My bus was 25 minutes late today and I just stood there. No one cares about lateness. Nothing actually starts when it is supposed to so why make it a big deal. Everything will be there when I get there; probably won’t have started yet anyway.

5. I can get a cabbie back to Zamalek without them having to ask for directions once. And even better, I pay an Egyptian cab fare rather than a tourist cab fare. The trick? Don’t ask the cabbie how much, just hand him what you know is right at the end of your journey.

6. I have had no digestive issues in the recent past. I can eat street food, vegetables, etc. and have a regular bowel movement the next day. I cannot tell you how exciting this bit of assimilation is.

7. A very useful skill I have learned is the ability to ignore absolutely anything. So there are 20 cats whining at your feet while you eat, sleep, walk, I don’t hear anything. So there is a man making comments as you walk past in English/Arabic, trying to sell you things, I don’t know what you are talking about. So there is a street-full of men smoking she-sha staring you down as you pass, stare back. I have become a master ignorer. Could be interesting when I get back…sorry guys.

So as you can see, there are many aspects of Egyptian culture I have begun to adapt. It is interesting that in a month and a half some parts of you can so easily convert while others cling to the small hope that someday you will return to normalcy. I am not sure I will ever break myself of the habit of forming a line rather than a giant mass. I mean, the act was drilled into me since preschool. “Line up…come on single file or we are not going to leave this spot…get in a line or you are not going to be served,” etc. whereas here it is every man for himself. “Push your way to the front kid or you will never get to eat.” Even though sometimes I am reluctant to let go of what I know, I learn more each day and am grateful for the people who teach me. Mahmoud, the 60 some year old man, high on hashish, taught me dominoes, the teachers/ex pats who I go hashing/play softball with teach me how to be a white person here and not get ripped off and show me where to find the comforts of America if needed, my classmates offer to help me with Arabic more than I could ever actually accept and so much more. Even though next to nothing goes as planned and the kinks of my actual education are still being worked out, I am truly appreciative of my experience so far and look forward to the next 7 ½ months of continued learning.

It's Egypt

Some pictures of AUC's new campus. The top is the main gate, middle is some of the buildings (ya they all look the same...confusing), bottom the corridor where everyone stops because it is shady...hard to walk through...none of the buildings are actually buildings. It is hard to explain but they are just classrooms, no hallways. To get from class to class you have to walk outside.

The second big thing that happened in the recent past was my first week of class. That was interesting. AUC is in the transition phase between the old campus and new campus, which would be fine except everything is literally still in transition. Buildings are not completely constructed, desks aren’t all there, professors don’t have offices, classrooms are double booked, kids and professors were given different room numbers for classes, no one knows where anything is, etc. One of my classes was scheduled in HUSS 1016 which happened to be a men’s bathroom. Guess they had the wrong building written down originally…oops. Things like that happened all week. My drawing class was re-scheduled for a different time and classroom except no one was informed about it; I still haven’t been to that class. I think most of the kinks have been worked out now but I know a lot of kids were really frustrated at the beginning of the week. I am going to be teaching an English class on Monday nights to 20 kids who attend Egyptian public universities with an organization called Better World. I will keep you updated on this as I think it is the thing I am most excited about right now. They are also working with the harassment and environmental issues in Egypt. Seems like a pretty swell organization to be involved in. The commute to and from the new campus isn’t as bad as I thought it would be. It takes about 45 min. in the morning (but that means on Mon. and Wed. I have to get up at 5:45…gross) and between 1-2 hours at night depending on traffic. I have never seen so many ipods in my life. Pretty much everyone brings headphones, a book and/or sleeps. Professors and students alike sit and watch out the window to see what interesting things will happen that day. One day I saw a man peeing in the street, another person witnessed a group fight, we see donkeys running along with traffic, and many other entertaining/interesting things. Could be worse.

Traffic. Taken from the coach bus on my ride home this afternoon

A couple of observations I have made about AUC and/or Egypt in general:
1. Students who attend AUC are exempt from many cultural standards upheld throughout the rest of Egypt. Examples include style of dress and PDA.
2. The same students exemplify other Egyptian cultural norms such as lateness, leaving garbage where ever, and a nonchalant attitude toward pretty much everything.
3. The kids who go to AUC are rich. Really rich. Like AUC holds the most rich people I have ever seen in one place. Gucci bags and sunglasses galore.
4. I would say that ¾ of the student population at AUC is attractive. Good looking rich kids are somewhat intimidating.
5. Egyptians are some of the friendliest people around, even if a lot of the time it is because they want to sell you things. People will just come up and talk to you on the street trying to put into practice the English that they have learned or even just play a little conversational churades. They ask where you are from, what your name is, what you like, show you around, take your picture and/or yell "Welcome to Cairo!" (I am pretty sure that I will get welcomed to Cairo until the day I leave...)
6. Children in Egypt do not have any sort of regular sleep schedule. They are out at 4 in the morning and fall asleep on their parents shoulders at random times throughout the day.
7. Seat belts/Car seats do not exist. Kids sit in the front seat, stick their bodies completely out of windows, sit on their parent’s laps, etc. Cairo has pretty crazy traffic. I find it befuddling that we put so much importance on something that we need probably about 1/5 of the amount that they do and it is not even a thought in their minds. I guess the traffic is slower for the most part but even so...I think I will do research on car accident statistics here and in the U.S...hmmm...
8. Garbage piled on the sidewalk smells bad.
9. Getting your haircut in Egypt is a scary but rewarding experience.

Pretty much I have learned here that you just have to roll with the punches and when something doesn’t work out, do as the locals do, shake your head and say “It’s Egypt…”

Alexandria

Alright, so quite a bit has happened/been observed since the last writing. I will try to cover most of it without droning on…if you get sick of it, stop reading. First of all, a couple of friends and I took a weekend jaunt to the Egyptian city of Alexandria which is along the northern coast. The city was founded by Alexander the Great and is home to the Library of Alexandria (rebuild because of the destruction of the original), the Mediterranean Sea, a pretty fantastic castle that was for warding off pirates, a bunch of little Egyptian style shops and the Catacombs. We got to see/experience all of these things except the last which we plan on hitting up during another trip. We took the train up which took a little over 2 hours and cost about $9. We stayed in a little hotel called the Normandy which had a balcony overlooking the sea and its own little charm. Sure it was right next to the main drag so there were car horns honking until 4 in the morn but it was pretty fantastic for a mere 20 L.E. or $4 a night.

The view from our balcony

During the day, we pretty much had to eat Pizza Hut the whole weekend as it was the only establishment open until after about 8 p.m. since Alexandrian citizens are apparently pretty darn strict about the whole Ramadan business. At night, for dinner we went to a market where, I didn’t eat because it was pretty much all meat but the rest of the group chose fish/shrimp out of a basket, brought it to a man grilling stuff and had it cooked right there. Looked fantastic…dirty but authentic.

We got some sobia and tamarind juice which we drank out of plastic bags. The locals we had met and that were showing us around were making fun of some of the group saying it looked like they were drinking breast milk…guess we need to work on juice drinking techniques. The guys got dress shirts and some pants made by a local tailor which was pretty fun. One night we went to a fantastic sea food place where the people were extremely friendly and the atmosphere was very much worth the $5 we spent for a huge meal. The place was packed when we got there with locals eating their iftar meal, they cleared a place for us and everyone got a platter filled with different kinds of fish, shrimp, salad, rice, and pitas. I can't really put into words why this place was special compared to the other fish markets around but trust me when I say it is worth visiting. During our stay, we frequented a bar called the Spitfire which had a very interesting story. It was a family owned place, passed down from generation to generation. It was an ex-pat establishment that originated for the British airmen, then became a place where mostly German military men would go and now mostly serves foreign travelers. The owner will ask were you are from and put on music from your home county. While we were there we heard an interesting selection including Johnny Cash, the musical Cats, Bob Marley and more. It was just a good place to sit and talk, relax and learn a little about the history of the place. On Saturday, when we were about to buy a return ticket at the train station a guy who looked pretty trustworthy convinced us to ride the bus instead as it was cheaper and still air conditioned. We figured why not and the 6 of us got in a 15 passenger van filled with Egyptians also making the trip back to Cairo. It was an experience as we blew a tire, waited while the driver fixed that (the guys all getting out and standing around him watching in typical male fashion), stopped at a mosque to pray, made another stop at a gas station, finally paid the man 22 L.E. and returned to Zamalek.

There are some things that bridge cultures...

Overall it was a great trip and we decided Alexandria is definitely a place to return to. The air is much cleaner than in Cairo, the sea breeze is relaxing and they have "the best juice place in Egypt." What more could you ask for.

Egyptian Juice

s

Now that I have settled in a bit, I am beginning to find/be shown some of the smaller, less obvious places to visit in Cairo. Sure, I have seen the big sights as well. Last week, my friend Conner was having trouble sleeping past 5 am so one day he decided to go to the Citadel to watch the sunrise. He sent me a text inviting me to accompany him but as I am a heavy sleeper, I did not get it until he called at 7. He convinced me to hop in a taxi and join him at a local tea shop in Islamic Cairo (where the Citadel is, about a 30 min. cab ride). After a short protest due to the fact that I was still in my pajamas, I decided to go. It was one of the best days I have had here. We sat and drank tea at a place that everyone else that sat down already had their order ready for them since they frequented it so often. There was a man right next to the shop who would come over and take peoples shoes. He would give them a cardboard slab to put their feet on so he could shine them while they drank their tea. You could tell this man had been in this profession his whole life. When he walked to get their shoes, he could not stand up straight. While he shone shoes he continually smoked cigarettes. He sat in the shade of the tree and waited for men with leather shoes to sit at the tea shop. He was someone I wish I could talk to.

After we drank our tea, we walked around the outside of the Citadel and took pictures of the buildings and people of the area before actually going in. We joined a tour group that was walking around that happened to have another AUC student in it.

(Inside the main mosque of the Citadel. There is one lamp for each day of the year.)

After that we went to Khan el Kalili to meet up with one of Conner’s friends who is half Egyptian. He looks pretty American but can speak fluent Arabic. It was interesting to see the shop keeper’s reactions to his haggling in perfect colloquial Arabic. It was obviously not what they expected. Along those same lines, we had a conversation with a cabbie who basically told us that the more Arabic you speak, the less your cab fare will be. If you do not speak Arabic they assume you are an American tourist that has money and doesn’t really know how much a cab should cost. Whereas if you talk to them, they know that you have been here longer and know the right price. I visited the Museum of Modern Art here which was fantastic. I never felt such an urge to be back in an art class with Tim Cleary. Last week we had dinner on a Nile cruise ship. Then, two days ago, of course I had to take a trip out to the pyramids and the sphinx. I know that is the thing most people are most excited about and they were interesting to see. It is pretty amazing that they have withstood the elements all these years.

But as majestic as these structures are, some of my favorite things are much smaller. For example, there is a fantastic little juice shop near AUC’s old campus. One of the students who studied abroad here for a semester a couple of years ago (and is back) showed us where it is. Mohammad Ali’s juice shop offers just about any kind of juice you can think of and juice here is different. It is fresh, not bottled. They mix it up right there for you and you get a glass, drink it on the sidewalk and put it back on the counter. They rinse it out and refill it for another customer. This little juice stand has been full every time I have gone. At night they also have ice cream and milk shakes. Right now, the Muslims here are in the month of Ramadan which means they fast from sun-up to sun-down with no food or drink. This also means that most shops are closed because during the day no one is doing anything and at night when they break the fast they have a party for the iftar meal. At around 7 or 8 at night some of the shops open and Mohammad Ali’s gets pretty busy. The sidewalks fill with families getting their children treats and socializing after a long day of fasting. It is a bit sad because we probably will not have falafels or koshery this month and instead will have to eat in more westernized places but I suppose it is a small price to pay to learn about the customs of a religion. Besides, my stomach seems to finally be rejecting local food for a bit so thanks Ramadan...

Mohammad Ali's Juice Menu

First Impressions

Egypt is hot. I sweat a lot. There are cats everywhere. There is garbage everywhere. The cats eat the garbage. I eat things that I have no idea what they are every day. People talk to me and I don't know what they are saying. I can see the Nile from where I live but if I touch it I might die. I almost get hit by a car every time I walk on/near the street. If traffic is bad it could take me an hour and a half in a thirteen passenger van to get to school each day. But...I love it! Life is different here; slower paced. Things don’t always have to be perfect. Their economy is very different. Doctors get paid about 200 Egyptian pounds a month if they work at a public hospital. (about $40) So food is less than a dollar. People complain when, at tourist attractions there are cheaper prices for Egyptians compared to visitors but look at what we make comparatively. Once they are credible, these same doctors go out and charge 50 pounds to one client. How does the system work? I don’t know but it does and I think we need to respect that. Women cover their heads/bodies/faces but it is not out of oppression, it is out of respect and in faith. There are rules that I do not understand but that I am learning to respect. Why in sweltering heat would a society choose to be conservative? The ancient Egyptians wore next to nothing! Yet, people here have acclimated to the heat and are fine wearing jeans, long sleeve shirts, burkas, and/or long dresses. I also must respect the culture and wear pants and longer sleeves even though I drip sweat. I too must acclimate. Being here, I realize that so many people I know, myself included, take so much for granted. Material items are what we thrive on. Yet, I would trade that in an instant for the kind of relationships the people of Egypt seem to have. Here, people communicate with each other face to face. They work together, eat together, talk to each other. Family is the core in their lives, they think first of the group and not of themselves. Too many times I think in our fast paced society, we forget to have real human interaction. And when we do, it is rushed or our minds are wandering to the next thing we are committed to. Everything is based on the individual. How can I better myself, make more money, have more things…I have already learned so much and met so many people in the short time I have been here. I look forward to gaining more understanding of the language so I can talk to more locals instead of just observing and talking to the upper class who have had the opportunity to learn English. Right now I mostly stay in groups with other “international” students (mostly from America) because that is who is here on campus. They are great people. Many with open minds, common goals, political understanding, etc. I have learned a lot from them. A girl I have become friends with is originally from Pakistan therefore, I have learned about issues there and how they affect her here. When she got here, they took her passport just because of where she is from. I have never experienced something like that. I am hoping to branch out and learn from the students who I maybe don’t have much in common with. Seeing the sights is great. We had a sunset felluca ride, (sailboat-ish) wandered around/got lost in Khan El Khalili, (one of Egypt’s largest marketplaces) eaten falafel like crazy, and many other things. But I believe that the things I will learn from people will be extremely more important than simply being able to say that I have been to Egypt and seen things.

Arrival

I made it. No problems; my flights were all on time, I had enough time in between flights so I did not have to rush but not too much that I was bored to death, my luggage made it and there were people to pick me up at the airport. I kept expecting the world to explode because my arrival happened so perfectly. I stepped off the plane into heat that was 99 degrees with an 81% humidity level. Not exactly the climate I am used to but just about every building I have been in thus far has air conditioning. There was a man there with a sign that had my name on it. We called Kim (my mother’s cousin) to let him know that I had arrived and he informed me that although he was out walking in the desert, Rebecca (his wife) would be at the house waiting for me and that for dinner we would be going to a party put on by the principal of their school. The man who had greeted me led me to the customs area and asked for my passport. He grabbed a customs form and told me to sit down and wait for his return. He left. For a second I was a bit scared as I realized this man could leave me, passportless at the Cairo airport. I thought about how stupid of a mistake it could turn into giving a stranger my passport but convinced myself that it was ok because this man had Kim’s number in his phone and Kim would not have hired someone that would steal my identity. I hoped. Thankfully, he did return and told me to follow him. We went through an entrance that said staff only but as the man was still holding my passport, I followed. On the other end of this entrance was a guard who looked at my passport as the other man nodded at me. They conversed briefly in Arabic and the guard looked up at me and lifted his arm to allow me through before smiling and gesturing to his nose complimenting my nose ring. I laughed as it is one of the things I receive the most grief about in the U.S. from adults. I smiled, thanked the guard and walked out of the airport. The man led me to an area where there were hundreds of people waiting, I assume for others arriving. He waved to a man in the crowd who waved back and began walking toward us. The man told me that this new man would take me the rest of the way. Once I left the airport I put my life into the hands of this strange Egyptian man who was driving me to Kim and Rebecca’s flat. Egyptian traffic is intense, like China; there seem to be no traffic lanes. Everyone just goes around whomever they please, however they please and simply honk, if they are close, as the come along side the next vehicle. I flinched as we would come within inches of a pedestrian or have to stop abruptly so that we didn’t hit a car changing lanes. The taxi driver just shook his head and said “Cairo traffic.” As he drove, I looked around and took in the sight of Cairo. It is desert, sand, concrete buildings, a cart pulled by a donkey along the highway, women dressed in pants or long skirts, some with head scarves some without, men also in pants grouped on the side of the road socializing, a herd of goats, vans used as buses, boys riding on the top of a truck, apartments, markets, big shops, small shops, men working on the street, a tree here and there; very different from small town Wisconsin and I am not even in the actual city yet. (Kim and Rebecca live in a suburb called Maadi which is south of the city) The driver had to ask for directions a couple of times to make sure we were headed in the right direction but we made it. We got to the flat and I gave the taxi driver a huge tip, mostly because I didn’t have any Egyptian pounds yet and I wasn’t sure how much was enough. We were greeted by a barefooted man who couldn’t have been much taller than 5 feet, wearing the traditional Egyptian dress which I think is called a galabeya. Then we had to figure out where I was going so he asked me my name and as that was no help, I told him I was looking for Kim and Rebecca. A look of recognition then crossed the little man’s face as he said “Ah, yes Mr. Kim.” I was told by the taxi driver that this man was security as he started taking my bag away. I figured I should probably follow so I thanked my taxi driver, grabbed the rest of my luggage, and followed him into an elevator. He took me to the second floor and rang the doorbell. Sure enough, there was Rebecca waiting for me. I thanked the man who had just carried luggage probably equal to his weight and walked into the home I would be staying at for the next few days. I set my bags inside the door and was shown my room where at the moment two housekeepers were cleaning. They too were barefoot. Rebecca got me some juice and we chatted a bit as I sat down and soaked in the fact that I had made it, without problem to my destination. In the background of our conversation I heard the Muslim call to prayer over a loudspeaker. That same sound would occur many times throughout the day and wake me at 5 a.m. the next morning.
After a bit, Rebecca got me a towel and told me to change into something less heavy as I was wearing rolled up sweatpants, a t-shirt and a zip-up hoody; not exactly the best dress for Egyptian heat. I washed up with the warning that I probably could but should avoid drinking the water if possible. After getting ready, we decided to take a taxi to the school where Rebecca worked so I could use the computer in order to e-mail my Grandma to let her know I was alive and check to see when I was to move into my dorm. From there, we walked a couple of blocks to the party. We got there and a man asked us which floor we were going to and Rebecca said the very top. The man walked us up a number of sets of stairs and rang the doorbell for us. We were greeted by a room full of people smiling and saying hello to Rebecca as they listened patiently to the introduction she was giving for me. They were very welcoming and I learned that they, like Kim and Rebecca, were all working in the elementary school portion of the Cairo American College. Most were from America originally, some had even gone to Stevens Point and LaCrosse. A woman came up to me and after learning my name and where I would be staying, very enthusiastically asked if I played softball. When I said yes, I thought she was going to wet her pants as she excitedly asked if I would like to be a member of the recreational team that she was a member of. Practice would start Saturday, one day from today. I told her that if it was possible I would love to be on the team and breathed a sigh of relief as I realized I could do this; living in Cairo would be just fine.
My first meal in Egypt was Chinese. The meal was provided buffet style in the same kind of serving dishes they used in China. The food was much more authentically Chinese than American Chinese food as well; I was impressed. At the end of the line was a bowl of fried bananas in honey which you topped with Arabic ice-cream which I have now concluded is a pretty traditional Egyptian dessert. Arabic ice-cream is delicious. I can’t really figure out the difference yet, but it is good. As we ate, Rebecca introduced me to a girl named Lauren who is going to be student teaching there this year and conveniently has a minor in art education. We talked for a long time along with her flat-mate who for the last 5 years has taught in Japan and came to Cairo this year to switch it up a bit. They had been here for about 3 weeks and told me where a K-mart like store was so that I could get an alarm clock. They warned me to get a battery operated one since the power goes out at least once a week here. I will take their advice. The room began clearing out a little and Lauren left but her flat-mate and I continued to talk and were eventually interrupted by an Arabic man who was another teacher at the school. He chatted for a bit and told us that he was the Arabic teacher in the high school and that if we ever had any trouble in our Arabic class or if we just wanted some extra help we could e-mail him anytime. So, in the end, I left the party as a possible softball team member with an on-call Arabic tutor. Not too bad for my first night.